Plow (Plough): A Comprehensive Guide for Farmers

The plow (often spelled plough) is one of the oldest and most important tools in agriculture. By turning over the soil, a plow prepares fields for planting by loosening compacted ground and burying weeds or crop residues. Early plows were simple wooden or iron blades pulled by oxen or horses. Modern plows are powerful tractor-mounted machines made of strong steel. Regardless of the design, all plows share the same basic purpose: to break the soil, improve aeration, and create a good seedbed for the next crop. Farmers around the world use plows as a fundamental part of field preparation to help crops grow more easily and abundantly.

Plows come in many shapes and sizes. On large commercial farms you often see multi-blade moldboard plows or heavy disc plows covering wide swaths. On smaller farms or gardens, one-bottom plows or rotary tillers may be used to cultivate the earth. In some regions of Asia or Africa, simple plow designs drawn by cattle are still common for small fields. Despite these differences, the principle is universal: an angled blade cuts into the earth, lifts and inverts a slice of soil, and leaves a new trench. This guide covers the history of the plow, the different types available today, how to choose the right plow, and practical tips for using and maintaining this implement effectively. Whether you work a large farm or a backyard plot, understanding the plow and its proper use will help you get the most out of your land.

History and Evolution of the Plow

Humans have been tilling the soil for thousands of years, and the plow has evolved steadily over time. The very first “plows” were likely just pointed sticks or hoe-like tools dragged by hand or by animals. Around 4000–3000 BC, early civilizations in Mesopotamia and Egypt began using simple wooden plow frames that animals could pull, sometimes fitted with a basic share. These early plows scratched and turned the surface soil, making planting easier.

By ancient times, metalwork improved the plow. Cultures in China, India, and Europe developed iron or bronze plowshares (the cutting blades) and added components like coulters (vertical knives) and moldboards (curved plates that turn the slice of soil). For example, Chinese farmers invented an iron plowshare around the 6th century BC, allowing deeper tillage in heavy soils. In medieval Europe, the heavy wheeled moldboard plow appeared, with iron blades that could carve through thick northern soil where lighter scratch-plows could not. These advancements enabled farmers to expand fields and grow more food.

In the 1700s and 1800s, industrial technology transformed plowing. Cast iron replaced wood in plow construction, and manufacturers experimented with new shapes. A famous milestone came in 1837, when John Deere (an American blacksmith) created a polished steel moldboard plow. This plow cut cleanly through the sticky prairie sod of the American Midwest without clogging, greatly boosting efficiency. Soon tractors were invented, and by the early 1900s gasoline engines began replacing draft animals. Tractors powered plows that could flip multiple furrows in one pass, a task unimaginable a century earlier.

Key milestones in plow history include:

4000–2000 BC: First animal-drawn wooden plows in Mesopotamia and Egypt.
6th century BC: Iron blades in Asia and the Mediterranean; introduction of early coulters.
Middle Ages: Heavy moldboard plows and wheeled designs in Europe; breakthroughs in turning thick soil.
1837: John Deere’s polished steel plow revolutionizes American farming.
Early 20th century: Tractor-powered plows and mechanized tillage spread across farms.

Over time, the plow continuously improved. Today’s plows still perform the same essential task but with modern enhancements. Current designs use high-grade steel, adjustable hydraulics, and sometimes GPS guidance to make plowing faster and more precise. Yet even ancient-style plows are still in use on some farms, showing how timeless this tool is.

Anatomy of a Plow: Key Parts

A plow may look simple, but it has several important parts that work together:

Share: The primary cutting blade that runs along the bottom. The share slices horizontally under the soil, detaching a slice of earth.
Moldboard: The curved plate that follows the share. After the soil is cut, the moldboard lifts and flips the slice to one side, burying weeds and loosening the ground.
Coulter: A vertical knife or rotating disc at the front. The coulter cuts vertically through crop residue and soil surface so the share can go in cleanly. Many modern plows use a round disc coulter that turns to slice roots and trash. This helps prevent clogging and creates a smoother furrow. Some plows even have smaller “skimmers” (or mouseboards) ahead of each moldboard to pull additional debris underneath.
Landside: The flat plate on the opposite side of the moldboard. It presses against the unturned soil (the land) and provides resistance so that the plow turns properly. The landside helps stabilize the plow and control its lateral pressure.
Frame (Beam): The main structure that holds everything together. It attaches to the tractor and supports the blades and wheels. A strong frame is crucial, as plows encounter heavy forces when cutting through tough soil.
Depth wheel or gauge wheel: Many plows have an adjustable wheel that rolls on the bottom of the furrow, controlling how deep the share cuts. By raising or lowering this wheel, farmers set the plowing depth evenly.
Adjustable links and hitch: On a tractor plow, the top link and lower hitch pins allow the operator to fine-tune the angle and tilt of the plow relative to the ground. Adjusting these controls the draft angle and ensures a uniform plow depth.

Each part must be properly adjusted and maintained. For example, keeping the coulter sharp and set at the right angle makes it cut efficiently through residue. Greasing any pivot points and checking for loose bolts on the frame prevents breakdowns. In short, understanding these components helps farmers set up the plow correctly and keep it in good working order.

Why Plowing Matters

Plowing is often one of the first and most important steps in preparing a field for planting. By turning and loosening the soil, plowing offers several key benefits:

Improved Soil Structure: Breaking up compacted layers allows plant roots to penetrate more easily. Well-tilled soil has better aeration, so roots can grow deep and strong.
Moisture Management: Tilled soil absorbs rain and irrigation water more uniformly. The furrows and loose earth help retain moisture where it is needed. As a result, plowed fields do not dry out or become waterlogged as quickly.
Weed and Residue Control: Plowing buries weeds, grass, and leftover crop residues under the surface. This reduces competition for the new crop and can break pest cycles (many weed seeds get buried or destroyed). Organic material left on the surface is turned under to decompose.
Warmth for Germination: Loose soil warms up more quickly in spring than hard, compacted ground. A plowed field can reach the temperature needed for seed germination sooner, giving crops an early start.
Even Seedbed: Plowing creates a level, uniform bottom in the furrow. After secondary tillage (like harrowing), farmers get a flat seedbed that allows uniform planting depth. This uniformity helps seeds germinate and grow evenly across the field.

These advantages can translate into better germination rates and higher yields. For many farmers, plowing sets the stage for a successful growing season. For example, burying a cover crop or organic fertilizer in one pass with a plow distributes nutrients throughout the tilled layer.

That said, plowing also requires timing and care. It should be done when the soil is neither too wet nor too dry. Overly wet plowing can smear and compact soil layers, while bone-dry soil can shatter into large clods. Farmers typically check the moisture: a handful of soil should hold together slightly when squeezed, but crumble easily with a poke. Choosing the right moment preserves the soil structure.

Types of Plows and Their Uses

Different plow designs suit different conditions. Here are some common types:

Moldboard Plow

A classic and widely-used design, the moldboard plow has one or more heavy curved blades (moldboards) on a main frame. Each blade turns over a slice of soil completely. Features and uses:

Use: Excellent for primary tillage and clearing a field. It inverts soil fully, burying surface residue.
Best for: Loamy or sandy soils where full inversion is safe. Good for starting a new field or burying heavy residue.
Advantages: Leaves a clean furrow and smooth soil beneath. Very effective at cutting through weeds and old plants.
Considerations: Requires a strong tractor. Not ideal in rocky ground (stones can damage the moldboard) or steep slopes (risk of erosion). After plowing, a follow-up harrow is usually needed to break clods.

Disc Plow

Instead of flat blades, the disc plow uses concave metal discs on an axle. The discs cut and roll through the soil:

Use: Breaking tough or untilled land. Each disc slices the soil, but does not fully invert it like a moldboard.
Best for: Hard, dry, or stony soils. Good on ground with heavy plant debris or sod that might clog a moldboard.
Advantages: Discs can handle rocks and roots without jamming. They cut through heavy residue and trash efficiently.
Considerations: Leaves more unturned residue on the surface. The seedbed is rougher, so secondary tillage is needed. Disc plows tend to require more tractor weight to keep them digging.

Chisel Plow

Also called a deep ripper, the chisel plow has long, narrow shanks instead of wide blades:

Use: Deep tillage without full inversion. Each shank punches down and loosens soil but leaves most of the soil on top.
Best for: Hardpan or compacted soil that needs aeration. Soil rejuvenation where topsoil is already in good shape.
Advantages: Great at improving drainage and breaking compaction layers up to 12–18 inches deep. Leaves plenty of residue on top to protect the surface (good for preventing erosion).
Considerations: Doesn’t bury weeds or residues deeply. Usually used in combination with or after other tillage methods. Tractor must be heavy and powerful to pull at depth.

Rotary Plow (Rotavator/Tiller)

A rotary tiller has a horizontal rotor with many rotating blades or tines, powered by the tractor’s PTO:

Use: Final seedbed preparation. The spinning tines grind soil into a fine tilth.
Best for: Small to medium fields, gardens, or vegetable plots. Mixing in compost or amendments thoroughly.
Advantages: Produces a very uniform, crumbly soil texture ready for planting. Excellent for incorporating fertilizers or manures deeply.
Considerations: Works best in soil that is already moderately prepared. Can struggle in heavy clay (soil may stick to the tines) or very wet ground. Typically used after initial tillage rather than for the first pass.

Subsoiler (Deep Ripper)

A subsoiler looks like a heavy-duty chisel plow. It has one or more thick shanks that go very deep:

Use: Breaking extreme compaction layers or hardpan well below normal plow depth.
Best for: Fields with serious compaction or layering due to repeated shallow tillage or heavy traffic. Helps roots reach deeper moisture and nutrients.
Advantages: Dramatically improves water infiltration and root growth when shallow layers have sealed over.
Considerations: Does not turn the soil, only shatters it. Very high horsepower required. Used sparingly (maybe once every few years) because it only needs to be done occasionally.

Ridging Plow

This plow has multiple angled wings to pile soil into ridges:

Use: Creating raised planting beds or ridges, often for root or row crops (e.g. potatoes, sweet potatoes, sometimes vegetables).
Best for: Crops that benefit from raised beds, or for improving drainage in flat fields.
Advantages: Allows planting in the furrow or on the ridge top, keeping plants off the wet bottom. Every pass creates neat rows.
Considerations: Very specialized; not used for general tillage. The soil may need to be leveled later if the ridges are not wanted for all crops.

Reversible (Turnover) Plow

Often called a two-way plow, this is a moldboard plow with a special pivot:

Use: Plowing a field back and forth without driving on the fresh furrow.
Best for: Large, wide fields where efficiency matters.
Advantages: At the end of each row, the plow hydraulically flips so that when you head back down the field, the furrow is turned in the same direction. This avoids leaving unplowed strips or driving on loose soil repeatedly. Saves time and produces uniform furrows in both passes.
Considerations: More complex and expensive than a fixed plow. Requires hydraulic hookups on the tractor.

Choosing the Right Plow

Picking the right plow depends on many factors. Consider these before buying or renting one:

Soil type and condition: Heavy clay, sticky soils, rocky ground, and fields with lots of crop residue each favor different tools. For example, a disc plow handles rocky or sandy soils with debris, while a moldboard plow works best in loamy soils. If your field has a hardpan, a chisel or subsoiler is needed.
Field size and layout: Large farms might invest in a big multi-bottom plow (three or more furrows at once) to cover acres quickly. Small farms or gardens may use a single-bottom plow or a walk-behind rotary tiller. Also consider field shape – wide straight fields benefit from reversible plows, whereas irregular fields might be better served by maneuverable smaller plows.
Tractor power: Make sure your tractor has enough horsepower and weight to pull the plow. A two-furrow moldboard plow might require 50-80 HP, while a six-furrow could need 200+ HP. The tractor must also have the proper hitch and hydraulic connections.
Crop and rotation: Think about what you grow. Some crops leave a lot of residue (like corn or sugarcane), requiring a plow with good trash-clearing ability. Root crops or crops needing raised beds (like potatoes) might work well with a ridger. If you practice cover cropping or no-till in part of your rotation, you may need to plow only occasionally.
Budget and maintenance: Complex plows (reversible, multi-bottom) cost more and require more upkeep. If you plow only part-time, a simpler plow may be more economical. Also consider availability of spare parts and repairs. Sometimes buying a used plow from a reliable brand is a good value.

It is wise to compare models and ask other local farmers. Agricultural dealers can often demonstrate different plows. Ultimately, a well-suited plow will save fuel, time, and effort. An oversized plow on an underpowered tractor will bog down, while an undersized plow might waste time covering ground slowly.

How to Use and Maintain a Plow

Using a plow effectively requires preparation and care. Here are key steps and tips:

Field preparation: Walk or drive around the field first. Remove large rocks, debris, or obstructions. If the ground is extremely cloddy or hard, you might do a light pre-tillage (e.g. run a disc harrow) to make the first pass easier. Check the weather; avoid plowing just after heavy rains or during drought.
Equipment check: Before hooking up, inspect both tractor and plow. Check tractor oil, fuel, and cooling system. Verify tire pressure for good traction. On the plow, look over all parts: tighten loose bolts, sharpen or replace worn blades, and grease any pivot points. Ensure the coulters and shares are sharp. Replace any bent or broken components. A well-maintained plow cuts better and lasts longer.
Attaching the plow: Back the tractor up to the plow carefully and secure the hitch points. For 3-point plows, pin the lower links and attach the top link. Make sure the plow is centered and level when lifted. Adjust the top link length so the plow’s tip is angled slightly forward into the ground. Attach any lift chains or springs that allow the plow to trip over obstacles. Connect hydraulics if using a reversible plow. Check that the depth wheel or gauge is set to your desired depth range.
Depth and angle setting: Set an initial depth (often 6–8 inches) by adjusting the gauge wheel or hydraulic stops. You want the share tip to penetrate to that depth. The plow should slice off a layer of that thickness. Also adjust the lateral angle so that the plow tracks straight and the furrow is full-width. It may take a test pass or two to dial in the right settings.
Timing and speed: Start the first furrow along the field edge. Begin at low throttle (e.g. about 3–4 mph) since pushing new ground is hardest. Keep a steady pace; too slow can cause plugging, too fast may scatter soil unevenly. Once the first furrow is made, you have a trench to guide the tractor wheels for the rest of the row. Use that first furrow as a lane for stability. Markers or GPS guidance can help keep rows straight.
Plowing technique: After each pass, raise the plow, move to the headland, turn, and align for the next pass. It helps to place the tractor’s right wheels in the furrow you just made; this ensures alignment and prevents slipping. Continue back and forth in parallel furrows. If you have a reversible plow, flip it at the end of each row and continue without driving on unplowed ground. If using a fixed plow, drive around the field edges between each run.
Finishing the field: Once plowing is done, raise the implement and inspect the field. You should see neat furrows with a uniform depth. Some clods or ridges are normal. Later you may run a disk harrow or cultivator to break up lumps and level the land. When done, clean the plow by hosing off dirt and debris. Grease all fittings and tighten any loosened hardware. Store the plow in a dry place or paint exposed metal to prevent rust. A well-cared-for plow will work better and last longer.

Safety tips: Always turn off the engine before adjusting or unclogging the plow. Keep bystanders (especially children) well away when plowing. Wear sturdy boots and gloves when handling sharp parts. Never reach under a suspended plow share. Drive carefully; avoid sharp turns at speed, and be mindful of slopes. Using the tractor’s ROPS (rollover protection) and seatbelt is essential.

Environmental and Soil Considerations

Plowing profoundly affects the land, both positively and with some caution needed. Its benefits for crop growth can come with environmental impacts if not managed.

Erosion risk: Turning the soil leaves it bare and more vulnerable. Rain or wind can wash or blow the freshly tilled topsoil away, especially on slopes. To minimize erosion, farmers often leave some crop residue on the surface (as with chisel plows), use contour plowing (following field curves), or plant cover crops after plowing. No-till and strip-till methods also leave more soil cover. Maintaining grass waterways or buffer strips along ditches can further protect soil from runoff.
Soil structure and health: Repeated deep plowing can break down soil aggregates and reduce natural pore spaces over time. It also exposes soil organic matter to air, speeding its decomposition (which can release carbon dioxide). To preserve soil health, many farmers combine plowing with conservation practices. For example, using a chisel plow or shallow cultivation instead of always inverting the soil, or alternating plow years with cover crops, helps maintain organic matter. Crop rotations (e.g. alternating corn with soybeans or wheat) also reduce the need for deep plowing and keep the soil balanced.
Subsoil compaction: Ironically, using heavy equipment too often can create a hardpan layer just below the plow layer. That hardpan can restrict roots and water flow. Periodically using a subsoiler (only when needed) breaks up this compaction. It’s often done just a few times in many years rather than every season.
Moisture management: In areas where water is scarce, conserving moisture is critical. Leaving more residue on the surface (no-till or reduced-till) can keep moisture from evaporating. However, if a field has a pest or weed problem, a single fall plow pass might remove the residue and create a clean seedbed, which can also manage pests without chemicals.
Soil life: Earthworms, beneficial insects, and microorganisms live within the soil. Heavy tillage temporarily disrupts their habitat and brings them closer to predators. Over time, a balanced approach helps. Many beneficial organisms actually thrive when crop residues are returned to the soil, as plowing does. Farmers often leave field margins untilled or rotate fields between plowed and no-till to support biodiversity.

Overall, plowing is a powerful tool but best used carefully. When done at the right time and combined with cover crops or rotations, it can boost yields without long-term harm. Conservation-minded farming often involves plowing only as much as needed – enough to prepare the seedbed, but not more – and protecting soil the rest of the season.

Innovations and Modern Plowing Practices

Technology has added many innovations to the age-old practice of plowing:

GPS and Auto-Steer: Many tractors now have GPS guidance. This lets a tractor auto-steer along straight paths with sub-inch accuracy, ensuring perfect furrow alignment and no wasted overlap. Auto-steer reduces operator fatigue and makes very large fields easy to plow in straight lines, even in low visibility or at night.
Plow Control Systems: Newer plows can automatically adjust their depth or tilt on the go. Sensors on the plow can detect draft force or soil hardness and change the hydraulic settings, keeping a uniform furrow depth. This ensures consistent plowing even as field conditions vary.
Hydraulic Wing Adjustments: Some advanced plows have wings that extend or collapse hydraulically. This allows farmers to change the plow width on the fly, depending on how much overlap or spacing they want between passes. It also makes transporting the plow easier when folding wings inward.
Electric and Hybrid Tractors: As battery and electric motor technology improves, electric or hybrid tractors may soon be used with plows. These tractors can provide instant torque and may charge regenerative systems when going downhill. Electric power could lower fuel costs and emissions while plowing, though battery capacity is still a challenge for heavy, prolonged work.
Data and Mapping: Before plowing, farmers can use soil maps or drone imagery to plan the work. For example, sensing soil moisture or compaction helps decide which fields to plow first. After plowing, some tractors record how many acres were covered and the exact path taken, storing that data for farm management software. This helps plan fertilizer or subsequent operations more precisely.
Automated Implements: Research continues on self-driving tractors and plows. Autonomous units could plow fields at any hour with minimal supervision. While not common yet, pilot programs show that in the future, a farmer might simply program the tractor-plow to run a field while they attend to other tasks.

Despite new tools, the core concept of plowing remains. Engineers still study the curvature of moldboards and soil flow to make plows more efficient. Modern plows use stronger, lighter alloys and better bearings to reduce fuel use. For example, some adjustable wing plows or sliding share designs allow a more even slice of soil with less drag.

Farmers in 2025 continue to rely on the plow for at least part of their fieldwork. But they often do so in smarter ways. The trend is toward maximizing the benefit of plowing (weed control, seedbed prep) while minimizing soil disturbance. The result is a mix of old and new: sometimes a good old moldboard plow pass, sometimes a shallow chisel or no-till drill — chosen thoughtfully for each field’s needs.

Plow vs. Other Tillage Tools

A plow is not the only tillage tool on a farm, and each has its place. It helps to know how a plow compares with other implements:

Disc Harrow: A series of angled metal discs on a frame. A disc harrow cuts, chops, and mixes the top layers of soil but does not fully invert it. Farmers often use a disc harrow after plowing to break up clods and smooth the ground. It’s also used by itself in reduced-till systems (without a prior plow pass), since it can penetrate some into the residue and mix soil.
Field Cultivator: This tool has spring tines or shanks that till shallowly. It uproots small weeds and creates a fine tilth just a few inches deep. Cultivators are used after crops are sown to control weeds between rows, or in seedbed preparation to refine the surface. A cultivator does not replace a plow; it only works the topsoil.
Rotary Tiller (Rotavator): As mentioned earlier, this PTO-driven implement churns the soil into very fine pieces. It’s often the final pass before planting gardens or small-grain fields. A rotary tiller can be thought of as a power harrow. Unlike a plow, it does not bury residue deeply; it mostly pulverizes what is already loose.
Harrow (Grubber): There are spring-tooth harrows and spike harrows. These lightly disturb the soil surface, break small clods, and cover seeds. Harrows are usually the last step before seeding, after a plow and sometimes a disc.
No-Till Drill: This seeding tool is not a tillage implement, but it is an alternative approach. A no-till drill plants seeds directly into untilled soil by cutting a narrow slit or band. This preserves nearly all crop residue and soil structure. Many farmers combine plow and no-till strategies; for example, plowing fields only every few years and using a drill in between.

In practice, a typical sequence might be: first, plow (if needed); second, disk or harrow to refine; finally, plant. Some systems skip plowing entirely. For instance, after harvest, a farmer might only run a disc harrow and then drill seeds for a cover crop. Understanding each tool helps decide the best approach. In some cases, plowing might not be necessary every year.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why should I plow my fields?

Plowing prepares the soil so seeds can grow better. By turning the earth, the plow breaks up hard clods and lets roots spread down easily. It also buries weeds, old plant material, and pests under the soil, reducing competition for your crop. A fresh furrow of turned soil warms up quicker in spring and holds moisture where seeds germinate. All these benefits – less weeds, better root growth, and a good seedbed – help plants start strong and yields improve. In one pass, a plow can also mix in fertilizers or compost, so nutrients are well-distributed for the new crop.

When is the best time to plow?

Timing depends on weather and crops. In cool climates, many farmers plow in the fall after harvest. The plowed soil then freezes and thaws over winter, which crumbles the dirt naturally and makes spring tillage easier. In milder climates, early spring plowing after winter rains can be ideal, as moist soil cuts cleanly and warms up for summer planting. The key is moisture: soil should not be muddy or desert-dry. A good test is the “hand squeeze”: if you squeeze a handful it should hold shape but crumble when poked. Avoid plowing wet clay (which smears) or very dry dirt (which clods). Plow when soil moisture is just right for cutting without smearing.

How deep should I set the plow?

Typical plowing depth is about 6–10 inches (15–25 cm), but it depends on your needs. Deeper plowing (8–10 inches) turns more soil and can break through compacted layers. Shallow plowing (around 5–6 inches) is used for light tillage or when working in a no-till system. You should not plow deeper than necessary, because very deep plowing takes much more power and can bring up subsoil that plants find tougher. Before starting, do a test trench and see if the depth covers old stalks but not excessive soil. Many tractors have adjustable depth wheels or stops on the plow to set a consistent depth. Proper depth ensures weeds are buried without wasting tractor effort.

What maintenance does a plow need?

Good maintenance keeps a plow working well. After each use, clean off dirt and plant debris to prevent rust. Check bolts and parts for tightness. The cutting edges (plowshares and coulters) should be kept sharp; sharpen or replace them if they become dull. Grease any pivot points or bearings regularly. If your plow has a disc coulter, check its bearings and edges too. It’s wise to carry spare shear bolts or pins: these safety parts break first if you hit a big rock, preventing damage to the plow itself. Store the plow in a dry place if possible; a coat of paint or oil on bare metal parts also prevents corrosion. Well-maintained plows cut easier and save fuel.

Is plowing bad for the soil? Are there alternatives?

Used properly, plowing is not inherently bad and can boost yields, but excessive tillage has downsides. Repeated deep plowing can dry out soil, increase erosion, and reduce organic matter over many seasons. To protect soil, some farmers use reduced tillage methods part of the time. For example, no-till farming plants seeds directly into undisturbed ground, leaving crop residues on top. This keeps the soil covered, holding moisture and preventing erosion. Another method, strip-till, plows only narrow strips where the seeds will go, so the rest of the field remains untilled. Many growers do a compromise: they might fully plow a field only once in a rotation, then in other years just do shallow cultivation or direct planting. These conservation practices help maintain soil health. In short, the plow is a powerful tool, but balancing plowing with methods that keep soil covered and alive ensures farms remain productive year after year.

Plow (Plough)